Mike Barrett photo
North of the City
March/April 2008 Signature Dish
By: Sheila Clark
Chef Tony Loschiavo
L-Eat Catering & Paese Restaurant
3829 Bathurst St., North York
416-631-9226, ext 227
www.leatcatering.com“It’s impossible to achieve perfection if you settle for mediocrity” is the mantra that L-Eat Catering founder and chef Tony Loschiavo says is one of his catering company’s mottos.
That philosophy has attracted an impressive list of high-profile clients, including Holt Renfrew, Tommy Hilfiger, the Toronto International Film Festival, Brian Gluckstein and Eugene Levy.
With a genuine focus on tailoring concept-driven menus and creating one-of-a-kind event experiences, chef Loschiavo has been the visionary behind some of the most talked-about events and menus in the GTA.
A trained chef, certified sommelier and successful restaurateur of the highly popular Paese Restaurant in North York, chef Loschiavo prides himself on creating sensational, one-of-a-kind, customized event experiences.
A firm believer in premium food quality, the native Southern Italian says, “Everything we do is custom and we believe that if you start with the finest ingredients, local and organic, you have a good shot at making a fabulous product.”
With 32 years of experience, chef Loschiavo has a knowledge and genuine understanding of the industry. He trained under chef Rick Harris of Hotel Toronto and gained his sommelier certificate under the tutelage of Jacques Marie at George Brown College.
He has served in managerial positions at various companies and restaurants, including Vittorio’s Osteria Restaurant, Contract Kitchen and Judy’s Country Tarts, a wholesale bakeshop that supplied to niche market and major grocery stores.
His Signature Dishes include a succulent semi-cured gravlax and the to-die-for warm banana crumble that is pure comfort food, especially when topped with L-Eats’ easy-to-make peanut butter ice cream.
Chef Loschiavo loves the combination of the sweet beets paired with the concentrated flavour of the salmon and he knows well everyone will moan with delight over his rum-laced banana dessert.
Semi-Cured Gravlax;
Warm Banana Crumble
with Peanut Butter Ice Cream
Semi-Cured Gravlax
Gravlax is a method of curing salmon (which is not cooked). The recipe below explains a semi-cure method. It changes the texture of the salmon, making it firmer and denser with a more concentrated flavour.
Recipe makes 4 portions.
Ingredients:
4 x 6 oz boneless skin-on salmon
4 tbsp sugar
4 tbsp salt
1 bunch fresh dill
2 oz vodka
capers
pepper
1 fresh lemon
10 small beets (5 red, 5 golden)
fennel bulb
Directions:
Combine salt and sugar and thoroughly coat the top of the salmon with salt and sugar mixture. Cover with dill and sprinkle with vodka. Place on baking sheet and wrap tightly with cellophane. Place a light weight on top of the salmon. Refrigerate overnight.
In the morning, rinse the salt and sugar mixture from the salmon and remove the dill. In a non-stick frying pan, add 3 tbsp of olive oil. Heat until the oil is just about to smoke. Pat the salmon dry and place flesh side down in the pan. Sear for 4 to 5 minutes until fish has golden to light brown crust.
When seared well, the salmon will move freely in the pan (don’t touch it during the process). Remove from heat, drain oil, flip the salmon and place in oven at 375 F for 4 to 5 minutes. Fish should feel “springy”
to the touch. Serve medium-rare.
For the sliced golden and red beets:
With skins on, boil for 20 minutes or until the skins falls off when touched.
Remove from water and remove skin. Slice into wheels 1cm thick. Slice the bulb of fennel 1cm thick also.
Sautee the fennel with butter (everything tastes better with butter), until it is soft and translucent. Add beets to the pan and season with salt and pepper to taste.
The sautéed beets, fennel and butter will create a jus, which will be used during plating.
Presentation:
In a square dish (if possible), place the beets along each side
(2 rows), alternating beets (red, golden, red etc.). Place salmon in the centre of the plate, between the beets. Serve with generous portion of lemon, fresh dill sprig and capers. Spoon the jus from the sautéed beets, fennel and butter over salmon.
Serve with an Alsatian gewurztraminer.
Warm Banana Crumble
For the filling:
4 bananas
¼ cup brown sugar
2 oz of butter
1 oz of rum
¼ cup dark chocolate chips
Directions:
Melt the butter in a saucepan, sauté bananas in butter and brown sugar. Flambé with rum and let cool. Once cool, add chocolate chips.
For the Topping:
1 cup of all-purpose flour
1 cup of oatmeal
½ cup of butter
½ cup brown sugar
2 tbsp white sugar
¼ tsp cinnamon
Directions:
Blend with a fork or pastry blender. Sprinkle in chunks over bananas and bake at 350 F for
1 hour.
For the peanut butter ice cream:
Mix two heaping tablespoons of peanut butter into half a litre of vanilla ice cream that has been tempered. You can use a mixer or do it by hand. Once all the peanut butter has been mixed into the ice cream, place it into the freezer until ready to serve. This can be done the day before. Place one scoop of ice cream on each individual banana crumble and serve.